Spooker
A Force-of-Nature ***  
Member #: 932 Posts 624
Registered: 24-8-2004 Member Is Offline Mood: rattle dem bones
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 09:06 |
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Cape Verde: notes from a small Island
Off on me hols in 48 hours, and found this on the flexiforms - the man should give up his day job!
Notes on a Small Island …
… Bruno and Mat’s trip to Cape Verde.
Flights (Astraeus)
Thomas Hobbes, in Leviathan, noted that the life of the English
peasant was nasty, brutish and short. Nigel Barley, the 20th Century
English anthropologist, noted that international air travel was
nasty, brutish and long. Astraeus is designed to carry the one, via
the other. So here we are…
Astraeus charges 20 pounds to take your kiteboard bag one way. So
that’s an extra 40 pounds. But on the plus side, one you’ve paid
them, they don’t care how much your luggage weighs (mine was more
than twice over the limit).
Tip: go to Maplin and buy an airline audio to 3.5mm stereo jack
adapter - so you can plug your iPod headphones into the airliner
audio system, just in case Astraeus ever show a movie you want to
watch. It’s bound to happen eventually, and then you’ll be ready.
According to Astraeus, the flight takes “approximately” five hours.
In fact, it takes six hours. Which is, of course, approximately
five. But it all sorts itself out because, although the pilot told
us that Cape Verde was in the same time zone as the UK, a steward
correctly pointed out that Cape Verde is one hour behind. Glad the
pilot had satnav.
Transfers
The official account has it that the Cape Verde island of Sal has an
airport. A more descriptive account might be that the island of Sal
is an airport. The island is short, the runway is long (so was the
visa queue, but I digress. We queued for a visa, only to be told
that we had one. Cool.)
But you still need to get to the hotel. The Morabeza has a minibus,
which operates a strict policy: they’ll take you, if they feel like
it. We were lucky on the way in to the resort, but had to get a
pickup truck taxi on our return. Three of us kitesurfers took that
return taxi, which cost a total of 20 Euros - not a lot of money, but
you’d better have the cash.
Hotel (Morabeza)
The Morabeza hotel is a slightly schizophrenic place: the public
spaces are elegant and well-kept, whereas the rooms suggest a youth
hostel that has fallen on hard times. Mosquitos exist here. Or
rather thrive. The Cape Verde 1000 Escudos banknote in fact features
a locust, which suggests that insect plagues are not generally unknown.
We had a little electric / chemical anti-mosquito device bough at
Gatwick airport, which seems to have the same effect on mosquitos as
big waves have on kitesurfers: they look on it as a challenge, rather
than a threat. Use plenty of Jungle Formula.
The South Beach (Santa Maria Beach)
The hotel is set on a beautiful sandy beach, but … DON’T KITESURF
HERE.
Just believe me. Oh, okay, I’ll explain why…
* Wind - The prevailing wind is cross-shore, and slightly off. So as
well as being dangerous, it’s extremely gusty and / or variable. You
can just about get away with a bow kite with lots of depower range,
but a C kite will get most people into trouble. Forget it, there’s
much better in store.
* People - Way too many! I nearly crushed three people when I got
lofted while launching a kite (see gusty, above). Landing a kite
here is also hard because, although there are spaces amongst the
sunbathers, they’re never where you need them.
* Security - I had my camera stolen out of my kit bag on the first
day. That means someone rooted through my big black kit bag in order
to find a small black camera bag at the bottom, covered in other stuff.
The only plus side of the south beach was the ample (I choose my
words carefully) presence of very fit, bikinied young women. But
Sharks Bay is what matters …. surely …
The East Beach (Sharks Bay)
THIS IS PROBABLY THE FINEST SPOT WE’VE EVER KITESURFED
Hard to find. Get a taxi - go to the Morabeza reception, and you’ll
get a 4WD pickup, with room for your gear and the capability to off-
road across lots of sand. The taxi will come back for you at a
prescribed time. Pay the driver at the end of the return trip.
You now have a dream of how you always wanted Shoreham beach to be.
Let’s get specific here:
* soft sand
* gently rolling, structured waves - not the big chop that
pretends to be waves at Shoreham
* cross-on or onshore wind
* warm water - no wetsuit needed at all
* hazy bright sunshine
* oh, why the bloody hell did I come back to England?
If you can look after yourself on the water, and want to progress to
waves, this has to be the place to go.
We had winds of 16 to 25 kts every day. Couldn’t have been better.
We were told that later in the winter, the winds would get stronger.
That could be a problem for some. The only thing that slowed me down
was gut rot (see Eating, below).
Whatever Cape Verde’s limitations (of which there are some), this
beach makes up for them.
The Kitesurf Centre (Surf Zone)
Unless you are getting lessons, don’t bother going here. The South
Beach has two kitesurf centres: Surf Zone is allied to WaveRiders,
and is nearest to the Morabeza hotel. The other is a short way east
along the beach, and is more friendly and better equipped. (The
other is also a Club Natalie Simone like the Menaville in Safaga -
why isn’t WaveRiders working with them?)
For the experienced kitesurfer, the only function of Surf Zone would
be to store your stuff. But this doesn’t make sense, because - if
you are going to Sharks Bay every day - then Surf Zone is a major
detour on your route from hotel room to taxi. So keep your gear in or
outside your own hotel room and not at Surf Zone - it’ll dry better,
and you’ll save on the Surf Zone storage fees.
Surf Zone has no cafe of its own or meeting place for kitesurfers,
and has no facility to wash or dry kites. It can only store gear in
big locked boxes where it can’t dry. We got the introductory talk
from its staff whose main points were:
* don’t leave valuables on the Sharks Bay beach (RUBBISH!
everything is safe in Sharks Bay, it’s the South Beach that’s the problem.)
* we close at 5:30 sharp because, well, we want to
* we did say 5:30, right?
* please remember the bit about 5:30, we seriously don’t want to work longer than we have to
They told us that there was a rescue boat that charge something like
15 Euros per rescue. But I never saw it. Fuck off.
Eating
The trip was B&B only. That makes it more expensive than you’d
think, because food prices on Sal are, well, European. And the
breakfast is not going to keep you going for long. Lunch and supper
at the Morabeza are good if unremarkable.
The star eatery has to be Restaurant Tipico - a big yellow unmissable
shack on the beach, near the hotel. No food ’till 8pm, but it’s
worth the wait. Plus a Creole band which, once the brass section has
gone off for the evening, makes some interesting sounds - I never
realised the full potential of a rusty iron L beam and a table knife
until I came here. Plus a dancer who would restore a faith in
humanity in the suicidally depressed. I personally blame Restraunt
Tipico for a disorder that still prevents me venturing too far from
the nearest toilet. but hey, it was worth it.
Getting About
Don’t. The town of Santa Maria is a sad place, with neither the
energy of Africa nor the colour of the Caribbean. We talked to
people who hired a car and travelled round the island (this probably
took them about an hour). They reported that the rest of the island
was much the same. Shark’s Bay is best reached by pickup taxi, and
that’s the only place to head.
You know INSTINCTively when you're living on the EDGE...
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nick-r
A Force-of-Nature * 
Member #: 1260 Posts 257
Registered: 20-3-2005 Member Is Offline Mood: lazy
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 11:01 |
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sharks bay it is then.....
although there is something slightly worrying about a place thats named after sharks...
http://www.rcad.co.uk/borthsurf.html
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Si_B
Pro 
Member #: 2537 Posts 80
Registered: 11-10-2006 Member Is Offline Mood: Single and getting happier !!
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 11:14 |
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I would wear a wetsuit, the water is deceivingly cold, trust me !!!!. Most of the locals wear shorties this time of the year to keep
the chill off. I swam out to rescue a chaps board and was quite shocked how quickly the seemly warm water had an effect. If you get in
trouble, there no one there to help !!!.
Stay away from the water area directly in front of you when you when you walk over the dune (where the taxi drops you off). The reef is
bloody knarly and it gets exposed at low tides.
I found it really challenging to kite here, but once I got over my nerves it was an amazing experience. Just remember there is no
rescue, and very little health care....if you get a bad injury you need your insurance or you will be in the sh*t. I kiting mainly to
the right of the bay as the sea bed was more sand here than the rocks you get in the middle, plus the gap between the waves seemd
slightly bigger.
If they built a nice hotel directly behind the dunes at Shark bay I'd go back, otherwise I can't see me ever returning. Santa Maria is
a dump, is overpriced and full of quite agressive immigrants who APPEAR friendly, but are only interested in your possessions and
money. The food at the little restaurant on the front (just down to the left of the old church) was definitley the best, but still
ended up ill for the last three days of my trip, lost nearly 2 stone over the next 3 weeks after returning. Don't eat anything with
even the slightest piece of salad in !!!.
Cheers,
Simon
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mNeil
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 13:27 |
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you'll have lost a few stone by the time you return then Spooks!
have a good hol and have a HAPPY BIRTHDAY you old timer!!!
A KITE IS FOR LIFE!! THAT IS IF ITS A YARGA.
founder of storm'n Normans van club!
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col123
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 14:41 |
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looks like you will be working on your tan then!!
To Infirmary and beyond..
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Spooker
A Force-of-Nature ***
Member #: 932 Posts 624
Registered: 24-8-2004 Member Is Offline Mood: rattle dem bones
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 15:36 |
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mmmmmm - sounds just like Egypt - only with waves
You know INSTINCTively when you're living on the EDGE...
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Pluto
A Force-of-Nature * 
Member #: 598 Posts 281
Registered: 20-3-2004 Location: Shrewsbury Member Is Offline Mood:
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 22:19 |
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Have a good trip buddy!
Sounds like fun to me, despite the mossies, sharks (?) in the bay, harsh reef, dodgy salad etc etc....
You'll drop a kite size on your return then - or you'll be jumping higher!!
www.kitesurfteacher.co.uk
IKO/BKSA Instructor
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Spooker
A Force-of-Nature ***
Member #: 932 Posts 624
Registered: 24-8-2004 Member Is Offline Mood: rattle dem bones
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| posted on 4-3-2008 at 22:58 |
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everything sounds cool!
the water may be 'cold' - but its 23C as opposed to the 8 or so we've got here at the mo,
and I don't care much for salad anyway
You know INSTINCTively when you're living on the EDGE...
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shem
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| posted on 5-3-2008 at 07:27 |
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Im jealous, Ive wanted to go there for years! Enjoy!
Kite & SUP wales
Caravan decking wales
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baileyman
Pro
Member #: 1933 Posts 114
Registered: 1-6-2006 Location: Leamington Spa Member Is Offline Mood: Reflective
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| posted on 5-3-2008 at 08:31 |
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Spooks - have a wicked time
Say hi to Christian and Karine for me
Rich
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Spooker
A Force-of-Nature ***
Member #: 932 Posts 624
Registered: 24-8-2004 Member Is Offline Mood: rattle dem bones
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| posted on 11-3-2008 at 18:19 |
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Just managed to find an internet conncetion ' albeit with a dodgy Portugese keyboard.
Well its hot as hell here, 15-25 knots every day, Shark beach is a gem. I have destroyed me 13m trying to do forward roll with
kiteloop, the remains are in tghe local shop, we're going out for a wake later.
gottas go ' money as run out!
You know INSTINCTively when you're living on the EDGE...
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simonc
Beach Bum 
Member #: 7150 Posts 16
Registered: 7-11-2007 Member Is Offline Mood:
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| posted on 11-3-2008 at 18:47 |
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Hi from Simon Fay and Iona. Jealous as hell. We're just about off to Bargeres (Pyrennes) for snowboarding. (we're packing our hiking
boots)
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mNeil
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| posted on 11-3-2008 at 19:29 |
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glad to hear you having a good time Spooks ; shame about the 13. did my 13 also on sunday caught a beauty wave and like a plonker let
the kite hit the deck, it was trashed in the waves....however with my sturdy sewing skills i can awaken the pheonix.
A KITE IS FOR LIFE!! THAT IS IF ITS A YARGA.
founder of storm'n Normans van club!
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shem
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| posted on 11-3-2008 at 22:25 |
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The good thing about destroying your 13 meter is that you can get a 13 meter edge2, its a sick kite, Ive always stuck to my Instinct
sport, but after a few sessions on the edge2, Im gob smacked!!!!!!!!! Its wind range top end is bigger than last years, I was still
holding it down in 28 knots with out any concern. handling is sweet as, jumps HHUUGGEEE, what more can I say! Try one.
Kite & SUP wales
Caravan decking wales
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Spooker
A Force-of-Nature ***
Member #: 932 Posts 624
Registered: 24-8-2004 Member Is Offline Mood: rattle dem bones
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| posted on 16-3-2008 at 13:05 |
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Stoppit Shem!
A local sailmaker has patched it back together and it seems to fly ok. It has been the kite everyone has wanted to try this week and
there have been a few converts methinks.
Problem now is that the wind has buggered off, nothing for the last 3 days, and I'm onto my last book. Fingers crossed for the rest of
the week!
Maybe catch you guys over the bank holiday weekend...
You know INSTINCTively when you're living on the EDGE...
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shem
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| posted on 16-3-2008 at 15:45 |
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Just wait till you try it spooks!!!!!
Kite & SUP wales
Caravan decking wales
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mNeil
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| posted on 16-3-2008 at 16:50 |
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sorry to hear you not having wind Spooks; not like you!!!!
i spent all of this saturday in the van repairing my 13 's broken rib, now i have 2 very sore fingers with holes in them but the kites
done and dont look that bad anyway as you are well aware i'm not into looks!
enjy the rest of your hols; i will be off to France for the 2 weeks this thursday.
A KITE IS FOR LIFE!! THAT IS IF ITS A YARGA.
founder of storm'n Normans van club!
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