Currenty learning to surf, I have a 6'10" mini mal. Not sure if it is lack of ability or if the board is too small for a first board,
but I seem to struggle as surf gets over 3/4 ft. I am light weight at 67kgs, don't know the board volume but it is no more than 2"
thick.
Ant thoughts?
That size should be fine for your weight. I learnt on a 6'3" which wsn't ideal, but I got there.
When you say you struggle once the surf gets to 3-4 foot, what do you struggle with?? paddling out, catching waves??
Al.
Catch wave ok,but go base over apex as soon as standing up.
Hehe
If you're basically going straight down the wave and then carrying on head first into the base of the wave, it sounds as though you
need to angle your take-off a little more to go along the wave rather than just going straight down the wave. You'll get away with
going straight down the face of the wave on smaller waves as there isn't really much of a face, so it just sort of pushes you forwards.
But as soon as you are out in 3-4 foot waves, you either need to get to your feet REALLY quickly and then turn onto and along the face
of the wave, or angle your take off so that you are facing along the wave rather than down it right from the start.
You'll get there... No one ever said it was easy!!
Al.
quote:
Originally posted by justal
Hehe
If you're basically going straight down the wave and then carrying on head first into the base of the wave, it sounds as though you need to angle your take-off a little more to go along the wave rather than just going straight down the wave. You'll get away with going straight down the face of the wave on smaller waves as there isn't really much of a face, so it just sort of pushes you forwards. But as soon as you are out in 3-4 foot waves, you either need to get to your feet REALLY quickly and then turn onto and along the face of the wave, or angle your take off so that you are facing along the wave rather than down it right from the start.
You'll get there... No one ever said it was easy!!
Al.
Thanks guys! Sounds lodgical now I come to think of it. Hopefuly put it into practice this weekend as the forecast looks good for the NE coast.
An angled take off will get you onto the open face quickly and give you a much better wave/face ratio. I had a very similar problem and one of the key things is 'get up quick' - it's difficult, but if you are still getting up as you are dropping down the face, your momentum will be all wrong and you will go over. Try to be up before you start dropping, then you will be in a better position to turn. I know it feels stupid, but practising your 'pop' on your living/ bed room everyday will help you get up quicker and ultimately improve your surfing no-end!