Went to watch "Riding Giants" last night, at aber art centre. Top big wave film, not the usual seppo matcho shite, ( not mentioning
billabong odessey)u hum!!
Historically interesting, with a massive feature on greg noll, heaps of monster surf, and finished off with laird towing into true
monsters, and more to the point "playing on them". Actually fancy going surfing again. My self and Al will be towing into "The bar"
tommorow, using my dory. Should be fun, x fingers for some sort of swell.