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September so far in the Forces-of-Nature Diaries
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Member Details Session Description
Toys Used
Owner: justal
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Member#: 1
Location:
Registered: 21-07-2002
Diary Entries: 2968

Mood: Just Chillin
6th October 2002
Surfing: Llangenith
Wind Direction: Calm
Wind Stength: Calm
Surf / Sea State: 3-4 foot glassy surf
Air Temperature:
Sea Temperature:
Weather: Sunny
Max Speed:
Distance Covered:

Another early start and we were in the water before 8am. (Well, James, Dez and I were). This time the surf was perfect. 3-4 foot and a glassy as you can imagine. James and Dez have only ever surfed on the Isle of Man before, so had never really seen proper waves before as all they ever really get is wind-blown mush. They got pretty excited as they walked over the dunes and saw perfect sets rolling in with no wind at all. We were lucky and managed to paddle out in a lull so got out the back dry-haired, Hui (the surf god) obviouslt took note of this as James then took a big drilling on his first wave and managed to scare himslef by being held under for ages so decided to play around on the inside in the smaller waves after that. I had a good surf with some perfect little lefts and rights. Dez was doing OK too and managing to get to his feet OK. Juan and Sarah then came out. Juan was doing OK and Sarah was enjoying herself playing around on a big foam board in the white water. The swell droped off a bit then and James came back out the back, and Sarah made it out there for a while too.

Toys Used:
High Energy Thruster 6'6"

 

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