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West Wales : North of Aber

Climbing on Barmouth Slabs

The area between Aberystwyth and North Wales can offer some good windsurfing, surfing, climbing and walking conditions. It is however quite a drive around to the coast from Aberystwyth as you have to go inland to Machynlleth in order to cross the River Dovey. The inland locations, especially for climbing can be really good though and a viable alternative to North Wales, especially when North Wales is crowded. This page describes a few of the better locations in this area.

NORTH OF ABER

Contents of this Page

Aberdovey
Graveyards
Tywyn
Llwyngwril
Fairbourne
Bird Rock
Cadair Idris
Craig Cywarch
Barmouth Slabs

Related Pages on this Site

Surfing
Windsurfing
Climbing
Links

Aberdovey

Aberdovey is quite a drive from Aberystwyth, but is only a 2 minute windsurf from the estuary at Ynyslas. The main beach in the town of Aberdovey faces south into the Dovey Estuary and provides a good spot to launch from for windsurfing. Its possible to windsurf in the channel at low tide, but high tides are best as you then have the whole estuary to play in.


Graveyards

The currents of the River Dovey tend to form various sand banks around its mouth. The Dovey Bar is the largest of these and visible from the shore at low tide. Other sand banks can also be fairly stable in this area, and one just north of the Dovey estuary often holds a semi-secret wave known locally as 'Graveyards'. Few surfers from Aberystwyth travel to this wave, but it can be OK in the right conditions.


Tywyn

The beach that runs north from Aberdovey to Tywyn is basically a continuation of the beach at Borth, split only by the Dovey Estuary. Conditions are therefore similar to those at Borth, but the beach does face more SW rather than West, so Tywyn can be a better place to windsurf from in a westerly wind.

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Llwyngwril

I won't say too much about this spot, but the surf here can be quite good..Shhhh.


Fairbourne

Further north again is the beach of Fairbourne which can provide good windsurfing conditions in a SW wind.


Bird Rock

A few miles inland from Tywyn, to the south-west of Cader Idris, is Bird Rock. This is a quiet, little known climbing location. The routes on this crag range from V Diff to E3 and details can be found in the following guide: 'Rock climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams' ISBN 0 09 468410 3. Climbing on this crag can be an enjoyable experience with views from the top being pleasant rather than spectacular.


Cadair Idris

Cadair Idris is the hill that people from Aberystwyth head to for hill walking, scrambling and some climbing. This large hill less than an hours drive from Aberystwyth offers several good walking routes and if you are lucky enough to be on the summit on a clear day, spectacular views of the Cardigan Bay coastline. Several good traditional climbs on a massive cliff with a distinctive slab and groove structure are also available. Climbs range from V Diff to E2 and details can be found in 'Rock climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams' ISBN 0 09 468410 3. Cyfrwy by the Table Direct (V Diff, 194m) is a nice days outing.

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Craig Cywarch

Craig Cywarch, near Dina Mawddwy, is the third location for climbing in this area is. These crags contain many climbs ranging from Diff to E3, details can be found in 'Rock climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams' ISBN 0 09 468410 3. Will-o'-the-Wisp (HV Diff, 95m) is a classic that improves throughout the route.


Barmouth Slabs

A selection of easy slab climbs, that can get rather crowded.


North Wales

There will one day be more to follow on surfing, kiting, windsurfing and climbing spots in North Wales, such as Abersoch, Rhosneigr, Barmouth, Black Rock Sands etc.


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